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From the Tuscan
Coast with its white beaches and pine-shaded coasts to
Chianti's rolling hills teeming with cypresses, olives and
vines to Umbria, Italy's green heart, visitors will find
any form of nature to suit their taste. Travelers
through the Garfagnana, in the north-western corner of
Tuscany, often think that they have accidentally strayed
into some dramatic part of the Alps; while in the still
under-explored Maremma, to the south-west, they find
cowboys on horse-back tending their
herds.
Dotted across the
whole region are, of course, many of Italy's most famous
citta d'arte (art cities), whose names everyone
knows: Florence, Siena, Volterra, San Gimignano,
Perugia, Assisi and Gubbio. But these are only
the diamonds in the tiara (and perhaps suffering in recent
years from the depredations of mass tourism - they are
best
seen out of high season unless your idea of a holiday is
to
stand in long queues for a three-minute ogle of
David).
Less well-known gems abound
throughout the two regions: Montefalco, known as
Umbria's balcony for its remarkable outlook; Trevi, with
its dramatic mountain-side location; Pienza, a
delightful and unique remainder of Renaissance town
planning; and San Piero a Sieve, in the Mugello,
whose ugly outskirts belie its medieval heart.
Much of the delight
of traveling this region lies in ignoring the standard
tourist trails and just following the road. Do this,
and you will always be sure of arriving at some memorable
destination which, may well not yet be 'discovered' - by
the tourists, or the guide books.
In Tuscany and
Umbria, like the rest of the country, most towns have
their
own local holidays, usually the feast day of the patron
saint, often celebrated with a fair and
fireworks. In addition to these are
traditional
events and festivals peculiar to each locality: Siena has
its famous horse-race in Piazza del Campo (the Palio); in
Arezzo, they joust in full medieval costumes; in Florence,
they still play a lethal version of traditional football
(calcio in costume); in Gubbio, teams of young men run up
and down a steep mountain carrying gigantic
wooden 'candles', apparently just for the fun of it.
Religious pageantry is particularly rich around Easter and
food and wine get their turn in the autumn with fairs
('sagre') devoted to tasting of local specialties: Chianti
Classico, truffles (in Umbria), pecorino cheese (in the
Pienza area), boar, and olive oil. Details can be
had
from local tourist offices, or keep an eye out for
posters.
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